DAY 19

 "Adobe Solitude"

8x10" Oil on Canvas

Yesterday we toured the breathtaking "Cliff Palace" rock dwellings where the first ancestral peoples in this area were hunters and gatherers some 10,000 to 15,000 years ago. A rigorous descent and assent beginning from the top of the mesa down very steep and narrow rock stairs and wooden ladders. Here are some photos. If you have never been to this archeological site, it is well worth the brutal heat, steep grades of windy switchbacks and difficult camping conditions.

Sadly to say, all of the mountains here are stripped of tall green trees only underbrush provides color. What once were forested mountains now appear as a graveyard full of stark bleached white skeletal remains of the trees due to natural wildfires caused by lightening strikes. Everywhere I look, twisted bones of flailing arms and fingers grasping toward the sky as if pleading to be rescued in their last moments from the inevitable fate of destruction. In the late 1200s, the Pueblos in these same mountains suddenly abandoned their dwellings for some unknown reason, perhaps choked out by the fires of drought.

Posting and phone service have been iffy at best the last couple of days along without any electricity, air conditioning or running water, so we are heading for the higher mountains to the north. 

DAY 17 & 18

Heading north on Hwy. 84, we left Santa Fe setting our sites on Pagosa Springs, Durango and Mesa Verde, Colorado. The highway is a beautiful drive right through Abiquiu and Ghost Ranch tucked away in Georgia's beloved terracotta mountains, all peppered with desert scrub, reminding me of three-day stubble on the slopes of ruddy cheeks and chin. I remember as a child drawing that same kind of beard on my Etch-A-Sketch. It's no wonder Georgia was willing to endure so many hardships in the early 1900s living alone in those high canyon walls. A short drive further, on through high cliffs that look as if they were sculpted with a chisel and buffed smooth with fine pumice to display distinctive colored layers of strata like towering confections at the stiff-peak stage of seven minute icing.

Over the last tall ridges of New Mexico, as if by magic, we coast into new landscapes. The scrub brush is now replaced by viridian walls of towering pines above valleys of lush lime-green farmland, and pastures dotted with livestock. Black Eyed Susans line the edges of the highway brightening our path. The mountains on all sides have turned from warm earthy tones of burnt sienna and ochre into cool misty blues that soften into periwinkle purples in the distance. We are now in the southwest corner of Colorado... back to the Rockies I knew from my college days.

My photos were all taken out the window going 60 mph, so bear with me here but I think your will get a glimpse of what I am trying to describe. Dave hates to stop while towing the trailer so I have to make do with the blur. I didn't get to paint yesterday since we were on the road most of the day, and then I was unable to post (until today the 18th) since there was no Wifi, water or electric hookups in our primitive campground high up in the canyons of Mesa Verde.

It was great sleeping last night, 60 degrees under a half moon and millions of galaxies of stars and planets. All night long I could hear the quiet hooves of elk nibbling on the tall grasses and wildflowers around our camper.

This morning we will be hiking and touring some of the numerous ancient cliff dwellings of the Puebloan people who first settled here 2,200 years ago. I hope to paint later this afternoon but have been painting miles of canvas on my mind. I believe when artists are creating, no matter what the genre, God is using us as His instruments to play and have fun in our world...I sure love being one of His brushes.

DAY 16

                "Peach and Company"

                6x6" Oil on Canvas 

Too hot to paint outside yesterday after lunch so I stayed in the camper and painted this peach-of-a peach and her green, potassium-packed playmates who were all snuggled up next to her taking a late afternoon siesta. She wasn't meant long for this world, but I couldn't bear to cut into her until I had captured all the reflections and shades of color (crimson, cadmium red and orange, and touches of yellow) on the velvety surface of her skin onto my canvas. (Dave had already taken the life of her next of kin) This was really fun to paint with natural light filtering in through the window onto the table top... all that remains now is a seed, may she rest in peace.

What amazes me most when I paint is the way I get swallowed up and vanish into thin air. It's like I have to become the object in order to paint it. Or, perhaps the subject is really just painting itself? I return to my body with the last stroke of my brush, or when interrupted by a curious hiker passing by wanting just a peek. I guess what I am really describing is contemplative prayer. 

I am posting early since we will be spending the day in local art galleries and at art shows, along with Mass at St. Francis Cathedral. However first I need to find some quarters and get going on the laundry. Woman's work is never done! 

DAY 15

"Lost and Forgotten"

10x8" Oil on Canvas

his

Meet my model, David the Dumper

Here's one for all you dump truck lovers out there. The owner of the RV Park here in Santa Fe, collects old forgotten farm and oil pump machinery that stand like sentinels around the perimeter of the park, frozen in time like a graveyard of unsung heroes. This painting was completed in 4 hours and I was really happy with it especially the way the old abandoned truck came out. The light and color changes so quickly out here, I swear I could paint the exact same landscape every 30 minutes and it would be a completely different piece. We've decided to hang out here for another couple of days... so much to absorb and possibilities for painting...it's an endless smorgasbord of choices everywhere you look.

Walter told me that Sagre de Cristo translated means "Blood of Christ High" and Santa Fe means "in Holy Faith."  What perfect names for these mountains and city...I couldn't feel more alive and in touch with the spirit here in this lofty desert cathedral.

Some of David Dumper's buddies: Tommy Tractor, Bobby Bulldozer and some of the rest of the gang

PS. A word of note, if you ever think about going to the UFO museum in Roswell...forget it...its like looking at a giant scrape book

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DAY 14

"Sangre de Cristo High"

8x10" Oil on Canvas

I am unequivocally in love with Santa Fe... every time I get here I wonder why I am not living here? The Indians say that everyone has one precise spot in the world where each of us is truly meant to be. I know this one is mine. 

I popped up this morning just as the sun was breaking over the mountains. The mornings are cool here with an elevation of 7,000'. The gentle morning breeze swept me away like a kite on the end of a string, soaring like a bird in abandoned wonderment. I painted this scene in 2.5 hours from right outside our camper door. I was worried about capturing all the wispy tall grasses in the foreground but really liked the way it turned out. Glad I completed this painting just as the sun was turning up its dial to scorching. 

Here are a few photos from the glorious sunrise on the horizon. Doesn't the sky on the first one look like a parade of enormous doves in flight? Thanks to all of you that have sent me messages of support and thumbs up on this blog. I am thrilled that so many of you are here with me. Hope you can feel the glow!!!

DAY 13

 

 "Balmorhea Reflections"

6x6" Oil on Canvas

Good Morning, America!!! Here is a little painting of the Springs at Balmorhea. I was about ready to wipe this one clean but at the last minute seemed to pull it together. I thought you might like to see a change of scenery from mountains to water pools. The photo is rather blurry but you should get the gist of it.

Senior spelunkers "gone wild" in Carlsbad Caverns at 750 feet below the earth's surface. You get in free with the Golden Age Passport. It's the simple things in life that mean the most!!! We're heading on down the highway into Santa Fe today, ready to take in the red hills of Georgia O country.

DAY 12

        

    "Morning Has Broken",  6x8" Oil on Canvas

I am pretty happy with my little painting above. Clouds have been alluring and screaming.. paint me, paint-me...the entire trip. We just don't get to see enough of them in East Texas buried in heavy drapes of pine forest. I have really enjoyed watching and studying the changing play of light, shadow and movement as they roll  along their way across the expanse of endless sky... a challenge to 

capture on canvas.  

Balmorhea Natural Springs

We arrived in Carlsbad, NM late yesterday stopping in Balmorhea, TX to swim in the natural bottom, spring fed pool. I have missed my swimming so this was a delightful break from the desert heat. The temperature of the water is 72 to 76 degrees year round and a popular site for scuba divers. I couldn't get it all in one photo so there are two photos, right and left, it's quite large.

Heading out today to check out the Caverns here in Carlsbad ....what a ride we are on...yee-haa!!!

Day 11

"Mountains and hills Praise the Lord!"

Here are the same little row of soldiers I painted yesterday, all dressed at reveille awaiting morning roll call of the sun.

Took a day trip to the Davis Mountains to visit Fort Davis and the McDonald Observatory. I had never been to a fort, with the exception for the Alamo. I could literally sense the spirit and energy that once walked those same grounds and paths. A key post in the defense of west Texas, Fort Davis played a major role from 1854 until 1891. Troops stationed at the post protected emigrants, freighters, mail coaches and travelers on the San Antonio-El Paso Road from Apaches and Comanches. Fort Davis is one of the best remaining examples of a frontier military post. There was a lot to see but here are a few of the photos I snapped of the huge expanse of land boxed in by a canyon wall.

Fort Davis

Officer's Quarters

Other Military Quarters

Restored Hospital

On to McDonald Observatory the highest place in Texas. In spite of the on and off rain
stunning views could be seen of the mountains covered with storm clouds.

The sun finally broke through by the end of the day to showcase in brilliance a sea of graduating blue sky and cumulus, hinting to the prospect of fair weather ahead. What an ever-changing and glorious world that astounds and mystifies me moment by moment. Light, the master sculpture and transformer, floods the canvas of my world in an evolving palette. I am humbled as I stand here in awe, wonder and praise.

DAY 10

 

"Company Halt...Attention"

6x6" 

I had just finished setting up to paint this little scene from our campsite which caught my eye, when the clouds opened up and it poured. I sat there in the rain like an idiot with my little umbrella huddled over my easel until the clouds parted and I could get to work. I am glad I did though, got to paint for the next couple of hours until the next cloud dropped its load. Trust me, I now have a renewed sense of appreciation for plein air painters. Between the ants crawling up your legs, mosquitoes biting you, flies buzzing around your head, not to mention the scorching heat & sunburn, gusty winds and the ever frequent cloud bursts, I don't know how anyone accomplishes much of anything. Don't these trees look like a regiment standing at attention ready to go into battle?

 

Somewhere under the rainbow in Alpine Texas...can you see it? 

We head out today for the Fort Davis Mountains, McDonald Observatory, and on into NM to Carlsbad Caverns where we will hopefully stay in a KOA...that is if there is room in the inn? We never make reservations just to add to the mystery and suspense of camping. If worst comes to worst we can always find the local WalMart parking lot. ; )

DAY 9

We were on the road most of the day yesterday, still without phone service. We got a little nervous when nearly frying the transmission pulling and tugging the pop-up over steep inclines on the way to Precidio. The child's story book, "The Little Engine That Could" came to mind, as we huffed and puffed our way over passes. "I think I can, I think I can...I thought I could, I thought I could"

The land is so stark and barren along the way that nothing could be seen but high billowy clouds in a pure cobalt-blue sky, cactus, and desert sands spreading a vast carpet for miles and miles, until bumping head on into the mountains. We wound our way on this roller coaster-like ride along the Texas/Mexico border, in and out of high canyon walls, playing peek-a-boo with the Rio Grande for several hours. Only an occasional dessert bloom would raise its head in glory proclaiming a life unclaimed in this remote wilderness...it's hard to believe anything could survive such harsh conditions.

Yeah, we are finally back in touch with the world via phone service!!! A huge rainbow arched up to welcome us like a gateway into the tiny town of Alpine and a 10 Star RV Park, with bathrooms and showers so clean you think you are at a lovely hotel. We have been taking sponge baths for the past couple of days so this felt like an oasis spa resort.

Oh, did I mention, I got bit by a doberman (nasty bruise and swelling) trying to obtain the password for the internet connection in the park. A small price to pay to stay in touch with all my dear ones.

It's quite cool here so we were able to sleep with the camper open until rain began descending at dawn. There is noting like homemade-camper waffles and coffee to warm you up and start another day.

Here is a beautiful little video of humming birds seen all over Big Bend Basin. The music is also haunting and mysterious just like these foreign lands!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTL29Ojg4DU&feature=related

I still need to fine tune this painting but thought I'd go ahead and post.

DAY 8

www.americansouthwest.net/.../big_bend/chisoswindow_l.html

I awoke before dawn to find directly overhead, a crescent moon wrapped tight in an ebony blanket dotted with masses of countless stars. I sit sipping that sacred first cup of coffee, praying my morning prayer just as the first rays of a new day are outlining the eastern edges of the highest peaks with a golden glow of warm light. It was perfect sleeping last night, actually got cold here in the basin. Who would have thought that could happen anywhere in Texas in the dead heat of mid-summer.

I painted for 5.5 hours yesterday trying in vein to capture the grandeur of it all. Life just doesn't get better than this folks!!! Later in the evening, we went for a short hike to a lookout spot called "The Window" to watch the sunset. This is the only little peek hole in the basin where you can see the distant valleys and mountain ridges stretching for mile to the horizon. The expanse looked more like an ocean of elongated islands floating in misty gray-blue waters. As the sun took its final bow the highest mountain faces lit up in a fiery-cad orange glow in the spot light.

We will be traveling most of today, snaking our way on to new adventures westward along the Rio Grande so I am posting early. A You Tube of the basin at various times of the day is attached. Wish you were all here.

DAY 7

We broke camp on the river yesterday and inched our way up the steep grade into the Basin Camp in the Chisos Mountains high in the Chihuahuan Desert. The elevation is 5401'. The temperature last night was in the low 60s so we turned the AC off and opened all the windows...it was glorious!!! However, shortly thereafter it began to rain and continued all night...so much for open air.

This tiny primitive basin camp is completely surrounded by sheer jagged cliffs jutting into the firmament, the tops of which are hidden under a blanket of clouds. There are no hookups or showers available for miles around so we are really camping now.

This is black bear and mountain lion country so each campsite features a metal box to store all food and scented items, since the bears consider pop-ups and ice chests fair game.

This morning two small deer grazed on low lying branches of nearby shrub as I scrambled eggs to go with our coffee and toast. We are hoping to spot a peregrine falcon who also claims these mountains as home while on the comeback from extinction. These incredible jet fighters of the bird world attack their prey at speed up to 220 mph, victims are usually killed by the force of the impact alone. Stay tuned for more wildlife lore from nature Nancy in posts to come.

I have been painting this morning and hope to complete the painting of this canyon later today.  Meanwhile, here are a few more images:
1. Road into Big Bend,
2. 1920s adobe (oldest in the park)
3. Another view from Rio Grande campground of the Sierra del Carmen Mountains that stretches into Mexico.

Stay tuned for another action packed adventure on Day 8 when we head east to Study Butte and Presidio....assuming the bears don't abruptly alter those plans.

DAY 6

"Violet Haze"

6x6" Oil on Canvas

"Rio Grande Light"

11x14" Oil on Canvas

Painted most of the day yesterday and for a couple hours this morning. I will post more photos whenever I can. There is no phone service in the park! I have more photos on my Blackberry so I am unable to send to my computer...the downside of living in the wilderness, 100 miles from the nearest grocery store. Thank God the camp's mini store has Spam or we'd starve...NOT!!! I'd rather starve but have been eating a lot of hot dogs and beans and rice.

The clouds parted and blue sky shown through yesterday afternoon producing the most stunning sunset that looked like an enormous strap of tangerine colored taffy pulled and stretched the entire span of the sky. 

Yeah, a fellow camper had the cord to connect to my camera. Here are some images of our campground, our little house on the prairie, and my two paintings.